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Posted by Dickon Broadhurst on 12th July 2010

The Fat Lady is Singing

Its over! Viva Espagna! Cycle To The Cup…..the World Cup….all over….back to reality….for the time being.

Here is where it all began….in a park in London

http://www.vimeo.com/8977179

So here I am, Cape Town at last. 5 months living out of four bags can finally come to an end. And what a trip! A journey of ups and downs….. but mostly ups in my case. At some points it really felt like hard work. Sitting on a bicycle for hours on end gets boring very quickly, especially if the scenery is unchanging, the hills are endless, the heat is oppressive and there is nothing to look forward to except for more cycling. I have also witnessed incredible poverty, poor education, alcoholism and a number of other problems that seem unassailable in terms of a solution. At other points, we would have great days where we saw beautiful scenery, met warm and friendly people or simply sat round the cooking pot playing the quiz game (my buzzer sound will forever be the sound of a squawking chicken whilst John’s is that of a stuck pig…very amusing). I really enjoyed crossing borders and establishing the various differences that exist from country to country……the most diverse being that of Sudan and Ethiopia, Muslim and Christian, abstinence and alcohol.  Similarly, having a huge elephant cross the road 30 metres in front of you can also be regarded as a highlight, albeit a slightly nerve-racking one. Four complete strangers agreeing to travel for 5 months could be regarded as a reckless thing to do, and we certainly weren’t without our many disagreements along the way. But we prevailed and, with the help of our added team members, we had an awesome time.

A sad point was England being knocked out before we managed to get to Cape Town which was highly inconsiderate of them. Duncan and I put a lot of time and energy into making our delightful costumes as St George and the Dragon (my bike) and King Arthur and his horse (Duncan’s bike), and we only got to wear them twice. The video below should explain further.

http://www.vimeo.com/13272372

So what is Africa like? Most people assume the worst and are surprised when I say that Sudan held one of the most hospitable populations that I came across. I told my Mum before I left that 99% of people are good people and it’s only the 1% who run around ruining it for everyone else. By the most part, people are afraid of what they don’t know….and the press don’t do anything to counter this. In the UK, if you say Africa, most people think of famine, wars and despotic leaders, corruption, robberies, Darfur with a smattering of elephants and lions. And from my experience, all of the above is true…..but the negative can only be applied to small percentages. Most people in Africa are just getting on with their lives and come across as warm and welcoming. Culturally Africa is hugely different to Western culture so there are inevitable clashes in the work place and so forth. The irony is that much of the problems in Africa have their connections with colonisation….whether that be the Brits in the past or modern day powers setting up trade deals that only favour a few of the elite. Similarly, the aid programmes that helped Ethiopia through their droughts in the eighties have left a mark where western people are regarded as walking cash machines whose sole purpose  is to hand out money. As Barbara Kingsolver put it, ‘no other continent has endured such an unspeakably bizarre combination of foreign thievery and foreign goodwill’. For the most part, big business and trade passes everyone by with the priority still being subsistence.

South Africa is fantastic. The landscape for the most part is stunning, and Cape Town is great for the simple fact it has a huge mountain in the middle, vineyards within an hours drive and oceans on either side. As for the people, a lot of people bad mouthed the country and its various populations and politics to me before I entered the country. I have experienced nothing but incredible kindness from the various people we have stayed with or met. It seems odd to me for people to be referring to each other as ‘the blacks, the whites and the coloureds’, but I don’t believe the terms are used with negative connotations. Given my expectations of racism, I only saw it in Botswana and partly in Rustenburg (against the blacks I might add). But mostly, I have experienced nothing but kindness from everybody. The rugby world cup in 1995 was where Mandela connected the country by persuading all colours and races to get behind a team of a predominantly white sport. The football world cup takes it one step further and in my view, is the perfect next step for a country attempting to fix its divisions. The whole world plays football, and the whole world (of all colours and creeds) has appeared in South Africa to follow their teams. The reaction in South Africa is for everyone (and I mean everyone) to wear their Bafana Bafana shirts, fly their flags and blow their infuriating vuvuzelas (at least make them play a tune) as a fantastic display of solidarity and unity. If anything, the country has taken a jump forward and any negativity I heard was simply ignorance. Unfortunately ignorance is a powerful force, and I witness it the whole time in the press in the UK. The country is developed and most people simply want to see further progress. The talk of civil war when Mandela dies is frankly the most ridiculous thing I have heard and only helps promote the fear that exists everywhere in the country. It’s just sad that a small few can cause such trouble. That aside, South Africa is an awesome place.

I thought I might sum up my trip by doing a low point and high point of each country:

High Points:       

  • Climbing Mnt Kenya
  • Diving in the Indian Ocean
  • Cycling under millions of stars when there was no moon
  • Cycling in and out of Blue Nile Gorge…however hard it was
  • Botswanan generosity and hospitality
  • Playing golf in Tanzania
  • Cycling 175 miles in a day in the desert….painful but satisfying
  • Watching the first Bafana Bafana game in a fan park…..mental
  • Lake Malawi
  • Having a beer and watching elephants drink from the pool metres away
  • Scoring the winning goal in the world cup final
  • Bungee jumping….the highest in the world
  • Dressing up as Saints/Knights and going to the England games
  • Cycling through the hills of Ethiopia (so beautiful)
  • Eating whole pineapples and mangos on the side of the road
  • Avocado/Guava juice…yum
  • Playing tennis in a nice part of Nairobi
  • Not being run over by some crazy drunk driver
  • The Garden Route
  • Victoria Falls….and the booze cruise that evening
  • South African and Sudanese hospitality
  • Arriving in Cape Town….The Finish

Low Points:        

  • Passport being ruined by an exploding can of insect repellent
  • Lindsey crashing….well she did that a lot but specifically when she cut her head open….next trip Lindsey is travelling in one of those zorb balls…..so nothing can go wrong
  • Cycling……its boring….next time I’m flying in some elaborately constructed flying suit/parachute (in actual fact we’re looking for sponsors…I can explain)
  • Drunks
  • Border crossings….dodgy
  • Dangerous driving
  • Being ripped off….a lot
  • England being knocked out….useless bunch of half wits
  • Hills
  • Cold weather
  • Camping….I’m over camping for now….especially when Duncan farts in the tent (totally unnecessary and should be outlawed by pain of death)
  • Not raising my total sponsorship money…..but I tried….and its good to aim high I suppose.

With that in mind, here is my last appeal to anyone who hasn’t sponsored me. I need another 300 pounds to get to 7,000 pounds which would make a nice round number…..everyone prefers round numbers. At some point I am going to one of the townships here in Cape Town to provide an organisation called Ticket To Ride with a number of footballs which will help them run their projects and football programmes, a really worthy cause by all accounts which I am looking forward to getting involved in somehow. It is unlikely, unless any of you millionaires feel like helping me, that I will reach my total of 20,000, although I can admit that it was fairly ambitious.

To all those who did sponsor me, the current total stands at 6,700 pounds which is a considerable amount of money which will really help both LandAid and Footballs For Fun. I know that both they and I are extremely grateful to all of you, and you have helped make this trip worth it for me. Thank you all.

Finally (I appreciate this blog is painfully long), I now intend to stay here in Cape Town. A shameless request, but if anyone has contacts here in Cape Town, particularly those who work in the property industry or who simply need someone like me to do some work for them, please put me in touch. Job hunting is tricky at the best of times, but with limited contacts it may become harder….and bank time is running out.  My number here is +27 (0) 733162510, although email may be best.

This is Dick Broadhurst…..reporting from yet another internet cafe….goodbye….goodluck…..until next time….when I shall be flying….back to y’all in the studio.

Ps. Below are some videos that we made that might be of interest.

Team Trevor as it stands

http://www.vimeo.com/12760647

Even the locals love England….God Save the Queen….Hilarious

http://www.vimeo.com/12609433

Bafana Bafana go one nil at the first game……and everyone goes bananas….or bafana should i say.

http://www.vimeo.com/12609158

Arrival of Team Trevor….the finish…finale…completion…and Table Mountain in the background.

http://www.vimeo.com/13209460

And finally my closing video….although I have no idea what i said. Probably the kind of stuff you should write down and publish in ‘quotations monthly’….or not.

http://www.vimeo.com/13209738
Posted by Dickon Broadhurst on 18th June 2010

Botswanarama

They named a place after me...

Botswana seems to have named a place after me…statues and all

Football fever….or football epidemic….is ravaging the nation and I shall endeavor to write all about it in the next blog. I am currently writing this blog from an office in Johannesburg thanks to a friend helping me out, and I am reminded of my previous life. I can’t say I miss it in the slightest. I also write in earnest, given that more has happened to me in the last three or so weeks than I can even begin to write down.

Some football practice during a break

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Botswana began with some warnings from a local that if we cycled the 400 or so kilometres we would undoubtedly die. Much of Botswana (the size of France) exists without fences allowing all manner of beasts to roam unadulterated….as well as eat or stomp on unsuspecting cyclists. Lions being the number one cycle fan. You learn on a trip like this to read between the lines and select your advice, so we binned this particular death threat in favour of a trip through the wilderness. We were presented shortly after  with a huge bull elephant posturing on the side of the road….was our decision correct? We continued to glean advice from anyone we passed (very few) which varied from ‘fatal’ to ‘no problem’ leaving us none the wiser. Conversation turned to lion defence….with me opting for a kitchen knife given to me by my mother (sorry I mean santa claus) and Duncan opting for a pen knife. We couldn’t help but consider that a pack of lions will select the weaker from the herd resulting in much macho posturing and fast cycling from both of us…..as well as keeping abreast of suitable looking trees. The idea was that the person not attacked would stab said lion in the eye. Our musings then turned to becoming one of the few people who had slain a lion with nought but a knife…..what a great photo opp that would be….and how we would surely make some news then. What girl doesn’t fancy a man who has slain a lion? Everyone remembers Hercules.

This big guy came within 10 metres of us before sauntering off in the other direction….close!
Bull elephants on the road

The main danger, in actual fact, is night time…. as we found out. We cycled 150km to reach a lodge we had heard about, but following an hour and a half conversation with someone in the morning, we failed to make it before it got dark. In the closing fifteen minutes of light we saw another massive elephant, a tank of a buffalo and numerous antelope….more than we had seen all day. Where there is prey, there are predators….and lion slayers??
Close up or what
Surviving to tell the tale, we stayed in a place called Elephant Sands which is built around a watering hole. Elephants show up most days, although amusingly they prefer the water in the swimming pool so come up within 5 metres of us in the bar. Quite incredible creatures with obvious intelligence. A huge highlight of the trip.
Pool water tastes better than pond water

Swimming pool water tastes better...fact
Following this, the seal was broken on what has since been constant experience of people’s generosity throughout Botswana and now South Africa….more highlights of the trip. We were bought dinner and breakfast as well being given some funds towards our trip before we had even begun to explain ourselves. A few days later a kind doctor in Francistown bought us lunch, and then let us stay in his fantastic house on a hill and cooked us the largest fillet steak I have ever seen. The following day we were invited to speak at a local school in front of 500 seven year old kids….another huge highlight. Never before have I had such a captive audience so full of questions. With both of us being suckers for center stage attention, we ended up speaking for 45 minutes with question time…. and with Duncan taking his shorts off (classy). Following that, the staff did a whip round and gave us yet more money, as well as a badge (like Blue Peter). One girl asked me ‘do you miss your pets?’. I dutifully made up that I missed my monkey the most…not wanting to let her down that I have none.

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In Gaborone, we met a dutch cyclist at 6.30am after a freezing night of no sleep (its winter….and cold….Africa cold? who knew?) who once again invited us to stay. Him and his family let us stay for four nights and made us feel completely at home. Duncan and I had plans for the fast approaching England game which required significant arts and crafts preparations, so we were able to draft in help from our adopted dutch family, including their 12 year old daughter who taught me both origami and helped me do some sowing.

http://www.vimeo.com/[vimeo]http://vimeo.com/12608539[/vimeo]

They also had a Great Dane which has to be the greatest dog ever….huge….I want one.

http://www.vimeo.com/12608539

We have a new video camera which will hopefully allow us to get on ITV, but also allows me to add some videos to the blog, which will hopefully be a bit more interesting, and give you all an insight into this mental World Cup in South Africa that writing about can’t describe. Oh and check out the photos as well….and of course…sponsor where you can.

http://www.vimeo.com/12608926

Stagger Inn…..what a name!

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Foot and Mouth hits Botswana…so my feet require cleaning

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Posted by Dickon Broadhurst on 8th June 2010

Zambivalence, Zambipure, Zambidexterous, Zambience…

Blonds have more fun! Or so the saying goes when women dye their hair blond. My interpretation of ‘more fun’ is probably not in conjunction with what these women would like, but that didn’t stop us from putting the theorem to the test. Admittedly we are not women (a minor glitch) but if this blondness is so powerful, I don’t see why gender barriers should get in the way. Duncan has had dyed blond hair from the beginning, so can only pontificate as to whether he has been having more fun or not. Chris and I, on the other hand, make perfect subjects. I opted to only dye my stylish airman’s goatee, fearful that dyeing all of my hair may result in fun overload. My father regularly says there is such a thing as having too much fun. I must stay grounded. Chris, however, has had all the fun drummed out of him working at the immigration office so chose to push the boat out (where does that expression come from?) like a ball of fluorescent candy floss. Blonds have more fun…..the proof is in the pudding….which is currently in the oven…jury deliberating. Thoughts please.

Hanging on the telephone

Hanging on the telephone

Santa Claus

Santa Claus

So Zambia, home of copper, a thousand smiles and 10 pence sachets of liquor (about two shots). In actual fact, much of sub-Saharan Africa contains these dirt cheap sachets of cane spirit, rum, brandy and vodka resulting in unfortunate alcoholism across the board (empty sachets litter the ground everywhere). A silver lining to this particularly dark cloud is that these sachets lend themselves rather nicely to our childish drinking games.

Booze cruising

Booze cruising....

With these frivolities in mind, we set sail on the aptly named ‘booze cruise’ along the mighty Zambezi, where our money buys us an open bar for two and a half hours. Unwise perhaps on a river where hippos and crocs surround boats with their jaws open, and if you escape them you must navigate one of the worlds greatest waterfalls on earth (currently a 100% guaranteed ticket to the underworld to date). No doubt my self confidence at overcoming these obstacles would be high after a skinful (I’ve seen Croc Dundee and McGuiver) but still, a risky business.

Water

Water water everywhere

Nonetheless, it was Jonkey the Donkey’s 30th birthday, so even I was willing to set aside the scrabble and chess and put my new blond beard to the test. Naturally, we dressed Jonkey in a style befitting a man with the surname Donkey, although I’ll put the photo in the photo library so that I don’t actively offend anyone (you must search if you wish to be offended). What followed was a night incorporating American, Australian and British subtle humour, with the odd foray into politics, history, geography and some pure unadulterated smut. A night to be remembered (another questionable expression).

Party boat

Party boat.....with santa?

Victoria Falls is a humbling sight, especially at high water where 10 million cubic tonnes of water go over the falls a minute….a bit more that when you fill your tea cup….some perspective! The experience also includes getting wet in a novel tropical-esque manner. In other words, instantaneous. We were also able to creep beyond the path boundary down to the water where we could dip our toes centimeters from where the water drops. A risky source of adrenalin (mutually compatible words) which led us to question the number of deaths that occur each year. Bear in mind that some of the others went jet boating and saw a body hanging from a tree by the side of the river below the falls (morbid). According to the park staff, a couple of deaths occur each year and only to the locals (doubtful somehow). Duncan and I resorted to the tried and tested method of ice cream to make the world a happy place again….only for our mortality to be thrown once more into center stage. Ice cream, it transpires, also sends Baboons to a happy place…..which explains the large male baboon sprinting towards us (imagine a very large angry dog). Our macho alpha male status was placed in jeopardy, more pronounced considering that as homo sapiens we can walk on two legs and can apparently outsmart monkeys. Fight or flight mode comes into play…..we are men….flight is not an option. My response was to polish of my ice cream in one large chomp. Dunc’s was to splutter ice cream everywhere and hide the evidence behind his back. Debate has raged ever since as to who most successfully outsmarted the monkey (me) although if it wasn’t for someone throwing rocks at said baboon, it would have been a different story.

What a view

What a view

So on to Botwana, where I am now in fact. Team Trevor reached its full might of 7 at Livingstone…only for us all to part company again with Dunc and I avoiding the $50 visa fee for Zimbabwe and heading for Botswana. Next rendez-vous, Gaborone where I am at present. I will try to do my Botswana blog before the game this weekend, although there is loads to write about.

I am aware that what I have written about are the antics we get up to in between cycling every day because quite frankly, cycling for 5 or 6 hours a day is not particularly interesting for writer or reader. However, should you fear that we are having too much fun I thought that I would remind you of the main focus of the trip which is indeed the cycling and in turn, raising money for my causes. In the last two weeks I cycled the length of Botswana which is a bit like cycling from London to Edinburgh twice, if not a bit more. Sitting on a bicycle all day gets highly monotonous, and I wouldn’t want to transfer the monotony to you by writing about it. On the other hand, I do really want to raise 20,000 pounds for my charities so I implore you to sponsor me and make the cycling worthwhile. Please, if you haven’t already, sponsor me….and for those who have, thank you very much. I need another 15,000 pounds to reach my target….which is totally possible.

Borrowing the locals well

Borrowing the locals well

Keep an eye out for me on ITV, potentially in the news, radio five live a day or two before…and possibly just on the news as we have some strong outfits for the game.

Bif Bif Spicy Meatballs

Bif Bif Spicy Meatballs anyone?

Posted by Dickon Broadhurst on 29th May 2010

Malawi on My Mind

Colourful

Colourful

Eight years ago, I was on a post-school gap year programme where I taught in a boys school a short distance from the capital of Malawi, so I have greatly been looking forward to returning to this great country. I am enjoying the constant feeling of nostalgia as constant memories rise to the surface. Its funny how much you forget in 8 years….mostly the language. Reportedly one of the poorest nations, the capital doesn’t seem anything of the sort being almost unrecognisable from before….with development all over the capital. The normally cheery Malawians all seem a little bit cheerier, and I noticed that even the money changers were wearing fancy clothes. Perhaps times are good for this African country. However, everything is also too expensive, the country is landlocked, fuel prices are high and everything is imported….so I imagine any economic success is fragile.  Gone are the days of a bag of chips for 5 pence though….in fact a lot of things resemble English prices if not more. My bank balance and I are having a inconsolable row.

Mayoka Village

Mayoka Village Lake Malawi

Nonetheless, I still feel like Malawi is my favorite place so far. Everyone grins at you, even when they’re trying to rip you off. Service with a smile as they say. Lake Malawi is so tranquil, beautiful and untouched that it is breathtaking, with mountainous back drops on either side and sleepy fishing villages dotted along the shoreline. My mind wonders to setting up some sort of fancy hotel there, but persuading people to fly that far may be a challenge.

Lake of the Stars

Lake of the Stars

We stayed in a notorious and beautiful backpackers lodge  on the shore line that I had visited before and set about making ourselves known to all the other travellers, albeit using the usual rowdy Brits-on-tour abusive xenophobic banter methods that seems to be the only way we know how to make friends. Given the presence of Dutch, German, US and even Israeli, there was plenty material to work with to keep us entertained. Stereotypes are wonderful things. There is a very old man there who sells chocolate who wears a matching purple hat, shirt,  pulled-up-socks, shorts get-up giving the impression that Cadbury’s recruited him themselves. He is always asleep so you have to tickle him should you need a fix.

Cadbury's

Everyone's a fruit and nutcake

Leaving Nkhata Bay, we embarked on yet another African ferry adventure. As is the African way, there are 3 decks to this ferry (from Glasgow originally) with the lower deck being reserved for economy and second (one and the same) and the top two decks being first class (45 pounds rip off). Subsequently there are about 10 people to occupy two decks and 500 to occupy the lower…including us. We took this opportunity, amongst the sacks, pigs, people, bananas and chickens to impress the locals with an impromptu onion ring crisp eating contest which…..you guessed it….involves seeing how many you can eat, much to the amusement of 500 onlookers. Crazy mzungus!!  We slept under the stars on the front deck on the second night, and I was witness to a fantastic sunset and sunrise which…..given the presence of the lake and the mountains of Mozambique in the background…..was jaw dropping and gives some insight as to where religions may have originated. The one set back to this experience that my idyllic sleeping post transpired to be a place where the small fish are dried out….so my sleeping bag….already fast becoming an inhospitable place to spend time…..now resembles sleeping in a fishmongers. Fishmongers are an acquired taste for sleeping in….but a bit like marmite….you either love it or hate it. Maybe it will keep the mozzies away.

Sausage

Salami and Sausage

After our ferry journey we trekked to Lilongwe where we stayed with Janey at Mabuya Lodge who happens to be a friend of a friend and educated us in what it means to be a backpacker proper…with various tales fuelled by her homemade jelly. We hope to return in October. Lilongwe was where I spent most of my time 8 years ago, so it was cool to be back, despite the fact that so much has changed. It may be worth mentioning that in Sudan, it got so hot that my insect repellent exploded right next to my passport rendering it fairly useless. Since then I have had to blag my way across many borders with the empty promise of getting a new one forthwith. Amazingly I haven’t had to bribe anyone yet…but on the Malawi border the guy almost sent me back…at which point I lied and said I had one in Lilongwe waiting….the result of which he gave me a 10 day Visa….and I concluded I should finally get off my arse and try and get one. No such luck. They can’t be issued except in Pretoria. Now I am armed with a piece of government headed paper with my name on it and how the Queen demands I be let through….which has been very successful so far. Who said the Queen was redundant?

Anyway, I’m currently in Botswana writing this, so I’ve got some serious blog catching up to do. I hope all are well. Stay in touch. Check out the photos. Sponsor me. Listen out for me on Radio Five Live a day or two before the game (details to come) and hopefully on ITV dressed like a pratt.

Back to the studio!!

Posted by Dickon Broadhurst on 14th May 2010

Into the Wild, Dressed in Style

Nice View

A nice view

As Mzungus (white people), we stand out. As Mzungus on bicycles, we increase our visibility further. But for some reason (which has nothing to do with blatant attention seeking), this visibility is not sufficient and we slowly seem to be digressing into a selection of circus acts. Lindsey lead the way by shaving her head so that she now resembles a small boy. Duncan’s dress code is effeminate at the best of times, but can add his bleached blond hair and recent pink shirt purchase to the list just in case anyone was in any doubt on the matter. Chris (our new recruit cycling on a bike he bought in Tanzania…brave) has stepped up to the bar by donning a pink cycling shirt (unsurprisingly given to him by Duncan), cultivating his impressive afro and wearing a hat I bought with a chihuahua with a big pair of jingle jangles on it.

Christine

Christine

Potentially worst of all, I currently sport a cycling top (from Duncan) that is effervescent yellow and pink and also fairly tight (admittedly I could barely get it on at the start).  Worryingly I also think its really cool…I look like a pro (of something). Added to this, I have added a leopard print seat to my bike (sexy!) and a Gordon the Gofer to the front (found on a road side in Tanzania…bizarre). To round off the look, I am modelling my facial hair on a hansome duelling musketeer….. and can now twist the ends around so that they point upwards. Ha ha…en guarde!! I can’t wait to get my new passport done in a month or so.

Leopard print seat

Pink and yellow, lycra and a leopard print seat.....sexy or what!

All of this means that folks may begin to question my orientation on a few matters, but fear not, bar Lindsey who is plain mad as a brush, our dress code is a combination of our childish sense of humour and the omnipresence of ridiculous clothes available for purchase courtesy of the markets throughout Africa that comprise of second hand US and UK clothes. A goldmine of fancy dress options.

Golf

No gear and no idea

In Morogoro (Tanzania) we heard of a golf course. Too tempting to turn down, all the team bar Jonkey (Zanzibar in search of action apparently) decided to test our skills (dressed in whatever golf kit we had remembered to bring…ie none). Anywhere else this may have been a problem. Not so in Tanzania. Tusker Time (beer o’clock) was called instantly with a view to relaxing our swings, with a stack more piled into the caddies bags to help with our focus.

Golf

The Tanzanian Masters

We turned to John W and Chris for guidance as they seemed to be the only two with any connection to the sport (Chris knows how to spell the word ‘golf’ and John sympathises with Tiger Woods and his penchant for cocktail waitresses). Lindsey and Laura were surprised when they were handed a stick and not a bridle attached to a pony and subsequently led the field in redefining the word divot and setting new records for what figure over par they could reach. In an afternoon we managed 4 holes out of 9, the worst result being about 30 over par (Laura..stick to the ponies I reckon) and the best result being perhaps 3 or 4 over par with all men claiming something in that region…but I’m pretty sure I was the only one telling the truth…honest!

Zebra

A stripy horse

As touched on previously, my journey through Africa has not resembled the swashbuckling adventure fighting off beasts of all varieties that I had hoped. So much so that Duncan and I have been compiling a montage of road kill instead. Sudan seemed to be the capital of all things dead ranging from donkeys, camels, cattle, horses and dogs (the smell in both instantly recognisable and unforgettable). Since then monkeys, babboons, bats, lizards and few unidentified species have been added.

Giraffe

Can you eat giraffe?

Fortunately, our route took us through a nature reserve in Tanzania whereby we were graced with live animals including buffalo, elephant, giraffe, zebra, babboons, hippo and antelope…and all from the side of the road at no expense to yours truly. Cycling along with a queue of elephants 10 metres to the side of the road is an awe inspiring experience that I shan’t forget. Sadly there were no lions, but I can only assume that they got the memo from the lion up in Mount Kenya to keep well clear or face the consequences. Like I said…en guarde!!

Border

Bordering

Tanzania has been a real adventure with our team increasing to almost its maximum of 7 (Jonkey missing). Chris learnt to speak Swahili a few years back and subsequently has been worth his weight in gold for the money he saves us in negotiations for things….everyone is as always an opportunist for ripping off the mzungus. He is aware he will lose his royal status when we cross to Malawi so has adopted fearsome puns to win us over. He entered 10 puns into a pun competition hoping that one would win…….but no pun in ten did.

Taxi?

A Taxing Tax Taxi

So here’s from me, Dick Broadhurst, reporting from the vastness of East Africa. Back to you Trevor in the studio.

Ps. Sponsor me.

Pps. Check out the photos on the site….there are loads on there

Ppps. I am desperate for some corporate sponsorship into my charity pot. 250 pounds would buy a prominent place on the website. However, in South Africa we will receive a large amount of publicity from both UK and local press, as well as some TV coverage. The official England band is playing us into the centre of Rostenburg for the USA England game for starters, but we intend to go further than that and make a real display of ourselves. If anyone is interested in working further with us on a corporate level we would be really interested, as I don’t have long to raise the remaining 15,000 pounds to reach my target. Thank you

Some of Team Trevor….leaders in intellectual exploration

Our gorgeous leader

Our gorgeous leader

Alpha male

Alpha male

Beta female

Beta female

The tour talent

The tour talent

Goatee

Goatee Grrrr

Posted by Dickon Broadhurst on 28th April 2010

Dick Broadhurst – distinguished mountaineer

My trip seems to have become a succession of endurance exercises of late. From 1.km deep ravines to marathon 36 hour bean truck rides in bandit country. The latest exercise involved a 60 mile cycle through Kenya, the first 25 of which were directly up hill, and I had nothing but a hope and a prayer to get me up it. When I say prayer, I actually mean a filthy hangover and a banana which may explain why it was so difficult. If I hadn’t found the chocolate hob knobs at the top of the hill I may have been done for.

New recruits Laura and John....and Lindsey the lesbian

Anyway, in my constant mission to try and impress the fairer sex, it would seem that cycling to Cape Town or cycling for 170 miles through the desert wasn’t enough, as I am yet to be inundated with fan mail. Subsequently, I decided to add ‘mountaineering’ to my list of accolades. Fortunately, Laura (our new recruit to the team) was keen to climb also, although not to impress girls she informs me.

Morning has broken

The two of us plus a cook and a guide set off, and to celebrate our departure, the heavens opened with torrential tropical rain as if to highlight how unprepared two cyclists are for mountaineering. Our cook and guide both had about 30kgs (impressive) on their backs and not to be outdone, I took Laura’s back pack containing imperative climbing items such as Haribo sweets and biscuits….manliness very much in tact.
Mountaineers
The mountain itself is one big nature reserve and, when we weren’t subject to rain or immersed in cloud, it was possible to see magical scenery ranging from an imposing forest lower down, tall yellow grass, beautiful cactus-like plants and ice and snow near the top. Naturally, my cycle kit doesn’t lend itself to mountaineering, but I was able commandeer some boots (the other option was plastic bags as socks) and fisherman oilskin trousers. Other than that, I had no warm clothes and a 3 quid poncho as a rain coat (punishment for being tight fisted in the camping shop…..’it doesn’t rain much in Africa’ being my thought process). That being said, the first two days were a walk in the park (?) and Laura and I easily got to the last camp without any altitude problems, albeit soaked through and freezing.
DSCF7274

On the last day we set off at 3am in the pitch black, me without torch (I forgot the batteries). Life became a little precarious as we hit the snow and ice as our various footholds were slippery and the drops became vertically significant. Amusingly, Laura chose this time to throw the toys out of the pram and freeze between two points, whereby she proclaimed that she was in fact quite happy where she was and had no interest in ascending or descending. Subsequently, we collectively had to drag and push her along on her tummy during which any dignity she may have had quickly evaporated. At 6.20am we reached the summit (Point Lenana 4,985 metres….irritatingly not the highest summit….ropes and skills are required there) of this dramatic and beautiful mountain at much the same time as some wispy clouds made themselves known, so our view wasn’t quite as spectacular as we had hoped, but we were chuffed nonetheless.
Summit
We informed our guide we wished to be back in town that evening and he replied saying that the ride out of the park would cost us 15 quid. Outraged by the fact that this was not included in the cost (the ride to the park was of course) and that it was so expensive, and that it was all a bit of a scam, meant that the next episode turned into yet another endurance exercise of epic bog and rain soaked proportions thanks to my stubbornness to cooperate with said scammers.
DSCF7283
With our porters off ahead, it was at this point that Laura heard noises in the bushes. I turned in the direction she pointed in time to see a huge lion careering towards me. Quick as a flash, I managed to land a solid right hook just in the nick of time followed by a couple of sharp jabs with the left. The lion took a step back, having underestimated his opponent, but then leaped claws and teeth glaring. I managed to flip the lion over my shoulder and then deftly landed a heavy walking boot on his gonads. This was too much for the lion who skulked into the the bushes no longer feeling like king of the jungle. I then continued off down the hill, the Jungle VIP.

A narrow escape

A narrow escape

We plodded for 15 hours straight for approx 27 miles almost all the way to Nanyuki (our original starting point) before being rescued by a man on a motorbike who miraculously navigated both of us through the muddy roads to our hotel. Here we were free to inspect our feet, pickled in African bog water for nigh on ten hours. Quite an experience.

Footness

The Mount Kenya wildlife reserve was not what I had anticipated in the sense that I had envisaged beasts everywhere and the threat of danger omnipresent. Alas, beyond elephant poo and hyraxes (large mountain rats), we were left somewhat disappointed….. except of course for the lion….that was exciting.

Descent

Following some much needed RnR in and around Nairobi (including a really good game of tennis), I went to the coast to meet Duncan (and to enjoy a bit of beach time), with the intention of then catching up the remainder of the group in Tanzania. We crossed the border yesterday to be greeted with 60km of dirt track in the pouring rain and yet another exercise in endurance. Safe to say that we have put our bikes through muddy grit soaked hell, so much so that mine chucked me off into a ditch (the second ditch I have visited in a week…the first thanks to an overeager priest….priests have now been added to my list of people with suspect driving abilities).

Time has become a worrying issue for the team (now seven by the way once we are reunited…probably today). 3,000 miles and 44 days or so till the beginning. Time to get a wriggle on….although a bit more sponsorship in the charity tin would make wriggling a lot easier.

Keep in touch.

Posted by Dickon Broadhurst on 17th April 2010

‘I love you more than you know’

At last. Someone loves me. And by the sounds of it, quite alot! I’ll admit that to finally hear this utterance from one of a pair of Ethiopian girls as I cycled past them is fairly unexpected, but that is neither here nor there. I am loved!23568_379768849263_503129263_3468942_5997435_n

Half an hour later and I hear the words, ‘I love you more than I love myself’. I can’t help but contemplate that the second statement relies on the speaker having a high opinion of themselves for it to carry any weight, but I have given her the benefit of the doubt on that one. I continue in a state of emotional nirvana…contemplating what it is that I have done that is causing such loving exuberance. I get the impression that Cupid is riding shotgun on the back of my bike firing off arrows much like a Red Indian might shoot buffalo. I am baffled but buoyant….the ego rising to the stars like a hot air balloon.

Once again I hear the words, ‘I love you’…..and at this point I am overwhelmed, love struck, dumbfounded…..so I cross a boundary of mine and utter for the first time ever the words, ‘I love you too’. This sentimental declaration is received with reams of laughter, guffaws, knee slapping hilarity. My balloon begins to return to earth. It is all but a ruse to amuse.

Arnie

Arnie (aka Jonkey the Donkey)....new team edition!

Romantic exaggeration aside, it is in fact a positive thing to hear these bizarre statements as I cycle…given that the majority of shouts I receive include ‘you (repeat constantly)’, ‘farenji (repeat constantly)’ and ‘give me money (repeat constantly)’ and dare I say it, the only response that I feel like saying is ‘F*%k off’. I am, however, not so foolish to do so and am aware of children’s ability to learn and imitate. A nation of children shouting ‘F*%k off’ at you is decidedly worse that one asking for money. Considering this, I believe that an enterprising traveller has adopted the policy of shouting ‘I love you’ in response to the normal demands for money….which has had the rather amusing effect that I have described above.

Laura Moody

Bananas, condoms and a broom....enter new team member Laura. Not sure what she has planned for all of us...but its intimidating

The remainder of Ethiopia was a hotch potch of cycling on my own, with John Keyes (our new edition and cycle guru) and original John before he got a bit sick. We stayed in hotels that more often than not double up as brothels…which is both amusing and unpleasant at the same time….white skin means big business so we attract a lot of unwanted attention. Easter took place with the joyful consequence of meat returning to the menu…..mashed up goat….or tibs…became a favourite. I found decent size pints. I also discovered the pleasure of stopping by the side of the road, buying a pineapple and eating the whole thing (watched by 100 Ethiopians as always). My previous blog attempted to endorse the merits of such a beautiful country….but I’ll admit that for the last week of so I couldn’t wait to leave. My advice to visitors is ‘hire a car’ and build some mental defences against the constant begging. My two comments about Ethiopia, as a Kenyan told me on the truck, ‘birth control’ and ‘education’.

One of the tribes in northern Kenya

One of the tribes in northern Kenya

At Moyale, John and I crossed the border and contemplated the next step of our journey. A 32 hour truck ride across a dirt road with potential rains and the likelihood Somalian kidknapping. Cycling would have taken weeks and destroyed our bikes….escaping the gun toting Somalis at pace was also unlikely. We read some other blogs which detailed the trip as the ‘worst ride ever’, ‘trucking hell’ (points for cleverness there) and simply ‘miserable’. Our own source (Duncan who had done it weeks previously) also painted a poor picture. The next morning we had a few hours to haggle with various trucks drivers and agents as well as select the most comfy looking ride. Beans or beasts seemed to be the options….no brainer. We could also ride up front at greater cost…but as true budgeters we opted to ride up top with whoeverelse. All in all that was the best decision by a country mile. We sat with about 8 others up top on the bumpiest road ever, bikes somewhere in the back, and took in the sun and scenery. Fortunately we had fewer people, we haggled a lower price of 1,000 shillings (possibly we are getting better at haggling) and we had room for all our stuff….as well as a bumpy dusty beany place to lie down when we felt like it. Bar a few flat tyres (its hard to describe the road as nothing like that exists in England….a recently ploughed field perhaps) and more dust than a dust bowl, we were able catch some rays, learn some Swahili and remark at the incredible trible people in some of the communities we passed through. By this time next year the last of the Trans African Highway will be built and the trip will become extinct….so I feel honoured to have travelled in such a typically African manner. Laura (new edition from Australia), Lindsey and Chris (new edition picked up in Ethiopia in process of acquiring a bike) caught us up on our truck ride and, given that it was Chris’s birthday that night, we took the opportunity to celebrate. I wont elaborate….but some of the photos might help.

Dirty Dicks

Dirty Dicks

So on to Kenya, an ex-colony with it’s noticeable British impact, a significant ex-pat population and more adventure involving mountaineering, trains, wildlife, chocolate covered hob knobs and rain (lots of it). I am continuing to make videos, however for some reason I can no longer upload them….so these may be dealt with at the end of the trip unfortunately. The photos shall continue though.

Truck of dreams....and beans

Truck of dreams....and beans

I have a Kenyan phone number should anyone wish to contact me (+254 727002059). Feel free to email or text me…I am grateful for any communication. Finally, my sponsorship has dribbled down to a baby crawl of late. Please help this baby walk again….or if you’ve got cash to spare….make the baby run or even sprint to the £20,000 total would be good.

Jonkey the Donkey

Graham Norton....or as Ali our Kenyan friend put it....John is a lady boy from Thailand. You can't argue with that!!

Its called 'King of Kenya'....and it's educational

Its called 'King of Kenya'....and it's educational...honest.

Posted by Dickon Broadhurst on 3rd April 2010

Abound in Abyssinia

Call me a lout, call me a yob, call be a Stella drinking Brits-on-tour hooligan, I don’t care. The Muslims have got it all wrong. Beer is good. Fact! This particular epiphany, this moment of clarity, this biblical vision came to me as I crossed the border into Ethiopia to be greeted by row upon row of bars. Despite some negative press we had read, we couldn’t see how it could be a bad place. We naturally had a beer to mark this moment, but only one, as sensible British people tend to do.

Countryside Before I discuss the incredible uniqueness and beauty that is Ethiopia, I thought I might take this opportunity to muse on the phenomenon that is ‘globalisation’. One such manifestation of this is premier league football. No ground breaking revelations there. What is interesting and amusing, however, is the worldwide knowledge of John Terry expressing himself with his team mate’s wives. The general consensus is that John Terry is a bad man. What I want to know, however, is whether, during his adulterous episode, his sordid session, his heartfelt love making (as I’m sure JT would rather I referred to it), John ever considered that possibly a billion people would know about it. That is power…of sorts. I only hope he did a good job.

Roof pigeon

Roof pigeon

But I digress. Something that grabbed me as soon as I got to Ethiopia, beyond beer, is quite how beautiful Ethiopia is. Imagine cycling through ‘The Cornfield‘ by John Constable, or any rural painting by Turner. With a country which is dominated by subsistence farming and is seemingly untouched by modernity, Ethiopia is like a time warp. Villagers plough fields with oxen, hay is neatly piled in stacks, houses are built haphazardly out of the surrounding wood. Combine this with rolling hills and a climate warmer but not dissimilar to England and the overall impression is that of staggering beauty. I haven’t even visited the most beautiful parts of the country so I’m told. There is also very little litter….something Egypt and Sudan have in abundance. Everyone should visit Ethiopia. The country is unique in so many ways. Its position in the highlands with natural borders have allowed it to develop independently of its surroundings. It has its own brand of orthodox Christianity, its own music like something I’ve never heard, a colourful history detailed in the bible and even its own grain that is endemic to the country. The grain is used to make the staple dish called ‘injera’ which looks like the inside of a camels’ arse (just so you know I am not in the habit of sodomising camels so have no idea what a camels arse looks like….but I reckon the description would fit anyway) and comes with dollops of mixture that look like cat sick, baby sick or any sort of vomit really. You guessed it, injera wins few aesthetic awards and struggles with presentation, but once you get passed that its okay. The grain is also full of useful goodies which is handy for cycling.

Injera

It looks a bit like tripe....with dollops

Another inescapable point is the high population density. There are people everywhere. I guarantee that wherever you are there is a person within 100 metres. Entering each town or village is like going into battle. We have, perhaps romantically, likened our experience to ‘The Charge of the Light Brigade’. The cry of ‘farenji’ (foreigner) is called within seconds and people materialise from everywhere. With up to 500 people, mostly children, standing around you and staring, we have established that this initially intimidating experience is in fact an opportunity to show off. Ever wishing to be the centre of attention, Duncan and I quickly appreciate our captive audience. Cheers, a dance, some clapping followed by humble bows. ‘So this is what fame feels like’, remarks Duncan, ‘do you think we can crowd surf?’.

Castles

Solomon Empire

‘Do they know its Christmas time at all?’ If the words to this song don’t appear somewhat patronising to you they should. The western world seems far removed from the reality. Anyway, this aid initiative of the Eighties is potentially one of the root causes of Ethiopia’s little problem. Most Ethiopians view foreigners  as millionaires whose sole purpose is to dole out money. Everyone is a beggar. Children sprint over fields to get to you as if we were an ice cream van handing out million dollar cornettos. I want to know who went out handing out money to kids over generations for this to be viewed as a viable source of income. Who reinforced the behaviour? If I said ‘big fat Americans in white socks and sneakers’ would that make me a narrow minded xenophobe? Most likely….but if you can’t blame Americans who can you blame? Admittedly, when one pound gets you approximately 20 birr and some food costing between 2 and 10 birr, it is necessary to be sympathetic. ‘Farenjis’ are charged more than locals as the norm….which seems fair enough provided they don’t take the piss. However, when children ask you for money as you sweat up a hill a 4mph and then resort to stone throwing violence on account of you not cycling up the hill solely to give them money, my sympathy for the little sh*ts swiftly dwindles. I also resent being expected to pay for the new additions to the minibus I took the other day. The conversation they had (I heard the ‘farenji’ reference numerous times in the discussion) was that they could have a lift because the farenji onboard would cover it. I think not. Lindsey is a bit slower and is often at the back of the team so takes a lot of the heat. As I pass the kids seem friendly, but when Lindsey comes past they turn nasty…as she found out when she felt a cow whip across her bum the other day. It is probably wrong to laugh at these occasions…but I can’t help it. They are essentially harmless. I have resorted to carrying a stick to serve as a threat (and to prevent things being stolen from your bike) although this may serve to raise the bar and increase the chance of getting a rock in the face. Laughing and smiling and making fun is by far and away the best approach. Although I am still and advocate of beating the little sh*ts senseless or tying them upside down naked to a tree (humiliation is a powerful tool) however I fear this may not be politically correct. If one of them draws blood then I’ll take them on. I reckon I can beat an 8 year old in a fight….just.

Hay making

Making Hay

The final, and perhaps most poignant comment about Ethiopia, which offers no insight but I insist on talking about it so that you can sympathise with my plight, is that the place is one big collection of damn hills. One after another. Ethiopians like to build things up hills….even when there are apparently perfectly decent flat bits on either side. Even Addis Ababa is a collection of hills. I have made some videos that highlight the hills experience….but safe to say that it is hard hard work. I’ve been earning my dinner a lot recently. I must mention, although if you are my mother then I suggest you stop reading now, that these hills have been the source of our first major calamity on the trip….which could have been far worse. The Blue Nile gorge cuts through the highlands between Bahir Dar and Addis and comprises a 20km descent followed immediately by a 20km ascent. The height is about 1.8 km top to bottom. Lindsey is queen of calamity. That day Lindsey hadn’t checked her tyres so had a puncture before we left, she then had 4 more before and during lunch. Most people would have said enough to the karma police at this point. Certainly John and I had already gravitated to the feeling of humour that exists beyond simple patience. But for Lindsey there was more. In the past Lindsey was responsible for something pretty terrible (speculation as to what is rife in the group), and the karma police don’t forget their debts. Lindsey, bless her cotton socks, managed to get half way down the mountain until her inability to brake led her to have a bit of a wipe out. I had sped off to the bottom already so was blissfully unaware of the crash….so only when a van passed with a blood soaked Lindsey and John in it was I informed of the incident. 6 stitches. Oh dear! I am thankful that the crash wasn’t that bad. The video should do the talking here.

YouTube Preview Image

I was left to drag myself and my tank of bike (that weighs as much as I do) up this monster of a gorge myself, which took me three hours of solid uphill and nearly killed me, but represents my most significant achievement to date. The videos, my appearance and the bogey in my moustache give a better idea of what was involved, but I’m pretty sure I lost a few kgs in sweat and have never done anything as difficult as that in my life. Hills hills hills….they’re overrated unless you’re at the top or on a set of skis. Stunning views though. (Videos currently not possible….one day inshallah).

Top of the Blue Nile Gorge

Almost at the top…..3 hours….if you look closely you can see more of the gorge on the right that drops even further down

I have developed a tendency for taking pictures of birds and flowers as you’ll see from the photos section. I’m too British to be a good photographer…and happy to leave Lindsey who is merciless and shameless when it comes to taking photos.

Birds

Thirsty birds half the size of my fist

Today has been one of those days where the word ‘patience’ almost pales into insignificance. I don’t know whether to laugh or cry. I have explained to the cab driver which way to go in his own city and then argued over the price when it was further than he thought. I have explained what I would expect to be contained in the salad listed on a menu. I have paid for two internet places that didn’t actually work….arguing gets boring. My video camera is having emotional problems. I have no idea where I am. The bike shop doesn’t have repair kits.

Flower Lane

I am bored of being stared at and asked for money. On the other hand I am becoming increasingly excited about the World Cup…we may even be able to get semi final tickets if England get through. Priceless! I have added loads of photos to the photos tab so have a look…..I’ll admit that a lot of them are Lindsey’s.

Keep in touch, let me know what you think of the blog and keep the sponsorship coming. I have raised over 4000 now. Only 16 thousand to go. Oh and 5,000 miles….we crossed 2,000 the other day.

I am on Twitter….my name is DBRacer. I don’t know what this technology means but if it can help me raise more money then I shall tweet like a nightingale.

Posted by Dickon Broadhurst on 26th March 2010

Escape From Khartoum

Like General Gordon before me, there had come a time for me to get out of Khartoum. Unlike Gordon however, this Englishmen narrowly avoided being knifed to death by Mahdist warriors and successfully departed, albeit 3 days after the initial plan following much expense, a lost key, a broken camera and phone, some flat tyres. I can honestly wholeheartedly truthfully say that alcohol had nothing to do with it. None of the problems listed above actually occurred to me so, what with my flat tyre record being spotless, Lady Luck appears to be on my side. Either that or the Duke of Disaster is saving something special for me.

Setting Off

As if to mark our departure from Khartoum, the temperature ramped up a notch, with Duncans’ thermometer listing 50+ degrees at times. Cycling in these sorts of temperatures is so much harder and we found ourselves drinking between 6 and 8 litres a day with rare visits to the bathroom. Bare in mind that the water we were drinking was also subject to this sun and heat, so imagine running a hot bath and drinking it and you’ll be somewhere near our experience. I am also blessed with a body that is predisposed to sweat at every invitation, so I discovered what it feels like to sweat for every waking…..and sleeping….hour. Nice! My one comfort is that even the Sudanese claimed that it was hot.

The journey to the border was otherwise fairly non-descript (I have some videos that could potentially do a better job). Lindsey had a broken pannier, the scenery gradually changed and we had a bit of a negative experience from some guy who saw us as arrogant Englishmen and went out of his way to be a pratt.

http://www.vimeo.com/10461169

So Sudan? Given its position in the public eye as a country of civil unrest, drought, conflict and wayward leaders, you can be forgiven for thinking that Sudan is a place best left to the sun. Certainly, given my relative inexperience of the largest country in Africa, I cannot comment in any informed manner. I can say, however, that most Sudanese will go out of their way to help you in a way I have never experienced before and are deeply upset by the negative press of their country, something they are trying to disprove. As one man said to me, ‘It is my duty to look after you’.

That being said, the government successfully deter tourists by hiking up the visa fees and making everyone jump through ridiculous bureaucratic hoops if you want to go anywhere (we spent a lot of time in security offices with people examining our passports….my job description was simplified to ‘buildings’….the temptation to say ‘elephant trainer’ was high). The goverment also seems to control the country by keeping a very wealthy Khartoum happy with the remainder losing out…as well as conflicts in Darfur reportedly being orchestrated by Bashir anyway. A country of complex but interesting issues. The northern part of Sudan isn’t really much to look at….there is only so much rock, sand and sun even the most rose tinted of glasses can take before eventually concluding that the desert is in fact crap. That being said, I enjoyed Sudan much more than Egypt with many memorable experiences…..one of which was entirely unexpected. A man and presumably his wife in her muslim get-up drove past beeping enthusiastically. On the car’s second pass, we were surprised to see the man holding his wife’s clothes aloft whilst energetically sucking on her nipple. I tell no lie,  a stranger thing I have not seen. We tried to respond in kind but our lack of boobs and the complexities of flashing your bits at high speed meant that we resorted simply to cheers and a desire for a car horn.

1,680 miles done. Max speed 35mph. Max temp reportedly 52 degrees. Onwards…and upwards….to Ethiopia.

Ps. I don’t really have any photos of this section….so I have included some videos further up that I made. Also, visit the photos section as there should be a few additions.

Keep the sponsorship coming, keep in touch…..and if anyone can give any advice on how to climb Mount Kenya on the cheap I would be most grateful.

Posted by Dickon Broadhurst on 11th March 2010

The Heroes of the Belusian Desert

Superman

Superman flies ahead...

Excuse me as I indulge in a small boast. Team Trevor was momentarily split because the rest of the team wanted to skip forward in a bus to the next town so they could watch the England Egypt friendly. My desire to cycle the whole continent meant that I opted out and Duncan offered to join me in the 170 miles (270km) from Karima to Atbara, two or three days cycling through more desert. Or not! Given that cycling with less people is a lot faster, I half heartedly suggested we cycle the whole thing in one go to see if we could arrive in time for the game as well (as a bit of a surprise for the others and so we could show off). I had forgotten Duncans propensity for stupid ideas: cycling to the worlds tallest building in Taiwan for a £1 bet and, on the way, running the Istanbul marathon in hiking boots. My suggestion approved, we were up early and heading off, immediately confronted with headwinds, hills, desert heat and meagre supplies of bread and lollipops. At 2pm we had only managed about 60 miles thanks to the conditions, and hit 100 miles at 6.30pm. Dusk. Dinner time. Bed time. Anything but cycle time. But no! We intrepidly continued listening to music and rueing the day our egos helped make decisions for us. There were few cars, but the initial lack of moon meant that it was pitch black, our eyes just capable of making out the line in the middle of the road. The postive spin of this is that it allowed us to see more stars than I have ever seen (Duncan’s phone uses GPS and an internal compass to tell you what stars you’re looking at…so clever).  The moon eventually appeared a shade of blood red, as if to reflect my inner turmoil of depleted energy levels, my subsequent ill mood, and the disappearance of my sense of humour. The 5 hours were grim, and we resorted to rationing our fizzy drinks in a bid to tackle our sugar lows. We arrived as the game finished, not bad considering the wind, in a complete state  and incapable of normal speech. But like with all challenges, I felt a sense of satisfaction at testing what I was capable of. 170 miles, 14 hours of actual pedalling, 8am ti 1.30am. Pretty gruelling. Why did we do it? Well Duncan has theorised that all actions can be trivialised back to the desire to procreate. In other words, impressing girls. I don’t know whether two guys wearing tight lycra cycling long distances with probable resultant fertility issues is sexy to women, but if it’s not, it damn well should be so I write this boast in earnest. 

http://www.vimeo.com/10083837

In case you didn’t know, my name is Dickon. I have a love-hate relationship with my name and I have an affinity towards the song ‘A Boy Named Sue’ by Johnny Cash. With a name like mine, the scope for purile humour is neverending. So much so, most people don’t believe that it’s my name, and those that do often prefer imaginative alternatives. At times tiresome, the one positive feature of my name is that I am an original, one in a million, a limited edition. Anyway, I foolishly look forward to travelling to foreign countries for my name to mean something good like ‘great one’, ‘lion slayer’ or ‘fights like a bear’. So it is to my dismay, and not for the first time, that I am informed that my name means chicken in Arabic. Or Dick means chicken. And so the comedy continues. Finger Lickin Dickon. My name, and therefore yours truly, will forever be a source of amusement across the world.

Camels

Camels

To prove this, we had dinner with a local family one night which was a highly enjoyable but, as usual, a linguistically challenging experience (sign language can only get you so far). A sure fire way to liven everyone up is for someone (Duncan)to mention that my name means chicken, cue Dickon makes a noise like a cockerel and everyone falls about laughing, my role in global society further cemented (Duncan has now adopted using this conversation starter everywhere he goes). Not to be outdone, the rest of the group proceeded to do impressions of other animals: John – pig, Duncan – whale, Ollie – goat and Lindsey – a bit of everything (amusing). We enjoyed it so much we have adapted our call signs as buzzers to be used in our camp fire quiz games, perplexing to any onlooker.

Meroe

I'm not sure you can climb the Egyptian pyramids....but these you can

Just in case anyone was wondering, I am becoming proficient in Arabic. This trip isn’t simply a jolly up the Nile, it is a journey of higher education and intellectual discovery (as no doubt you can tell from my blog updates so far). I can now count to five, I know the words for ‘bread’ and ‘beans’ (unsurprisingly learnt quite early on), ‘hello, how are you’, ‘friend’, ‘expensive’, ‘cheese’, ‘god willing’ (put together they make quite an amusing but so far fruitless request), ‘chicken’ (my impression now includes a beak and rooster hat) and my latest discovery ‘beautiful’. I refer you to my comment earlier about impressing girls, well this one is brilliant. Women across the world are suckers for a compliment.

Mohameds Wife

Mohammed's ex-Wife....apparently there were inconsolable differences

I must mention quickly Mohammed and his family that we stayed with in Atbarra (as sourced by the team who took the bus)(his family consists of him and his sisters and neices as he divorced all three of his wives in one go having got bored of them…..interesting I think). Having met us on the bus, they put us up for the night and fed us repeatedly with bread, beans, tomatoes, chicken, falafel, egg and even sausages (a vast improvement to our daily carb diet). Social etiquette it would seem is to force your guests to eat (every time you stop eating even for a second they say ‘eat, eat’), so each time we eat till we pass out having not worked out the polite way to decline their encouragments.

Sitting in the Shade

Sitting in the shade

Their generosity is neverending and they refuse all efforts on our part to return the favour. We eventually managed to get a photo of all of them and us developed which they seemed genuinely pleased to receive it which was reassuring. They then gave us a goody bag with sugar, biscuits, sardines, tea and crisps in as a leaving present. Crazy! Does anyone put up total strangers up in London? Not many. On that note, I am currently in Khartoum staying with a bunch of Eritrean girls (refugees of sorts it would seem) that we found through the growing phenomenon of couchsurfing.com. A brilliant platform allowing you to stay or host people over the world for absolutely nothing. A great way to meet new people and stay in places for free. I intend to use it throughout the trip and particularly when I get to South Africa. As I said to my parents before I left, most people are kind and us Brits should learn to be more trusting.

Meroe Pyramids

Meroe Pyramids

Khartoum is a totally different place to the Sudan I have seen so far. As if to mark this change, our final day cycling into Sudan involved 100 miles, 49 degree heat, 5 flat tyres, me lacerating my finger almost to the bone, and some cycling through the city in the dark in pursuit of our contact in a car…a bit risky at times. When it rains, it poors…..or the desert equivalent of that expression. We arrived at a ‘medical centre’ where we were to stay, covered in a weeks dirt, beard and sweat, and were immediately ushered upstairs to meet the doctor. Next thing we know we were sat on chairs in front of 40 morbidly obese people in fancy dress whilst a compere talked about us in arabic to the group.

Khartoum

Khartoum at last

Lord knows what was said, but we received ‘ooohs’ and ‘aaahs’ followed by a round of applause before we were ushered out again none the wiser. A very surreal experience….’fat camp’ in Sudan….a bit unexpected given some of the poverty seen in rural parts. I like to think that the compere said something like ‘four weeks ago this lot looked just like you’ (although the scales downstairs tell a different story…with Lindsey actually gaining weight).

In the four days I’ve been here I have been ripped off by a few cabbies (standard), found milkshakes, haggled with everyone, had an incredible Lebanese meal with an Italian we met, played 5-aside football at the British Embassy, found some beer (the first in 3 or 4 weeks…its so good), and last night we were invited round to dinner with the British Senior Political Officer. A more civilised experience than I can remember even in the last few years in London (despite our dishevelled appearence) with yummy food and wine. It was also a great way to discuss Sudan and its politics, power and wealth, the election and the referendum the following year, let alone a million and one other topics we seemed to cover over the evening. We were even allowed to steal their old copies of The Week, The Economist and National Geographic which is a huge result as out thirst for news and reading material has to date remained unquenched. I hope that we may be able to source more contacts from the foreign office as we travel south, as it is by far the most reliable and interesting source of information as we travel.

Ashes Goat

Whats that.....a goat with the Ashes on his head?

Our dinner conversation also highlighted that global politics such as the power struggles over Africa between China, muslim countries and the west is so much more interesting than our national news such as ‘the lack of grit during snow storms’, ‘crooked cops’ and the tears and airbrushing of our politicians. We have it so easy in the UK, and yet we are a nation of whingers. We have the best (albeit oldest) underground system, infrastructure, security, practically everything and yet nothing seems sufficient. The British stiff upper lip and resilient desire just to get on with it doesn’t seem so fitting these days. I can only assume that we whinge about these things because of the lack of more serious worries, and therefore should be grateful. In Sudan things such as rubbish, electricity, water, roads, traffic lights, laws, dust (Karthoum) is by no means a guarantee….and that is before you delve into politics, Southern Sudan and Darfur.

Flat tyre

I am successully the last to get a flat tyre....can I make it to the Cape without one?

Anyway, tonight we are playing football at the embassy again and are hoping that at the least we can use the showers afterwards and at the most, the beers afterwards may extend into a soiree of sorts. Then tomorrow we return to our bikes and spend the next week heading for the border of Ethiopia. Having now read up a fair amount of Ethiopia, I am really looking forward to it (and my research into Southern Sudan has informed me its not a good idea). Assured that my helmet will need to be worn throughout to protect me from thrown stones (one of the ladies at dinner last night got beaten round the head with a shoe), I am now looking forward to Ethiopia, the hills (I’m becoming a sadistic cyclist), the scenery, the availability of alcohol, greenery, jazz bars we have been told about in Addis, all sorts. It will also be cheaper. Sudan, mostly Khartoum, has been expensive with many things priced the same as UK prices with much of the city relying on imports.

Camel

A racing camel...if such a thing exists

We have cycled almost 1,500 miles so far. I have raised 15% of my total which is brilliant, but keep the donations coming. We are still looking for tickets to a game, further sponsorship, press coverage, anything we can get that might help us reach our totals.

I have now improved my previous two blogs with a video and some photos if you’re interested. Do look at the other guys blogs as well as they’re pretty interesting….oh and Oli Brooms which is really good. The photos and videos should all tie in with some of mine, and are probably a lot better.

Lindsey

Lindsey after a Sudanese makeover...sexy!

Finally, Lindsey, in a bid to raise more money, has decided to shave her head. Admittedly when she looks like she does in this photo I can hardly blame her…although I think she is nuts…and I anticipate tears directly afterwards as I’m not sure she realises what she’ll look like….please go to her page and sponsor her.

Nice Photo

A nicer photo

I believe we’ll have a story to tell about it soon enough. I can’t wait.

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